Coming Full Circle
“The real story of a pilgrimage well taken begins when the pilgrim returns home.”
- Father Slavko Barbaric, Franciscan priest
When I returned home from my 1998 pilgrimage to Europe with Milette, my husband Marvin's first words to me at the airport came with this observation: “You seem changed, as though you know something…you are in this world but on another plane...sure of your place in it..." In that revelatory moment, I remember being grateful it was my husband who first laid eyes on the raw material of new depths that transported me home. I believe it marked the beginning of the unfolding of “the real story of the pilgrimage” that the Franciscan priest described. And the story continues.
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Joyful hearts – On October 6, 2008, I wrote Milette: “It was 10 years ago today that I embarked on my 'golden' voyage of the spirit on your Fall 1998 tour. As I’ve mentioned, it’s a gift that keeps on giving!”

Her reply: “Dear Lynne, An angel just whispered in my ear that you must have this lovely rosary from my recent pilgrimage to the Holy Land, to commemorate your 10th anniversary as pilgrim to the shrines of Europe. Every bead is engraved with what’s alternately called a ‘Jerusalem Cross’ or ‘Crusader Cross’ on one side, and the other with an image of the Blessed Mother. May you have many hours of intimate communion with the Lord and Our Lady through this holy instrument of prayer. I'm sending this to you with great pleasure and much joy in my heart.”
"May abundant blessings continue to flow," wrote Milette in a note (shown at left with mailer and gift box) that enclosed her gift to Evelyne of a "Crusader Cross" rosary to mark the 10th anniversary of their pilgrimage to Europe.
Milette’s gift has accompanied me throughout my prayer life. On September 23, 2015, with “much joy in my heart,” I carried this rosary in my purse when Marvin and I attended the Arrival Ceremony of Pope Francis on the South Lawn of the White House. At one point I stood 10 feet away from the Holy Father as his motorcade swept by. In a quick but quiet moment when he waved and we locked eyes, his gentle ones seemed to say, “I see you…I know you.” Throughout his time with us in Washington, D.C., New York and Philadelphia, the pope’s simple words of hope and peace blessed this ordinary corner of my world with the familiar joy of pilgrimage wherever I happened to be during his apostolic journey in the U.S.
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Recollections of a golden voyage: a 10th anniversary celebration
Nothing I ever wrote about Fatima (in a series of five or six articles published in the 1990s) prepared me adequately for the sight that greeted me when our motor coach rolled onto the main road overlooking the hills surrounding the pilgrimage site. I wrote Milette in October 2008: “I know we traveled on Oct. 5, but I observe our milestone on Oct. 6 because that was when we arrived in Lisbon and I got my first glimpse of pilgrims walking to Fatima. You pointed them out and despite my befogged jetlagged state, I got goose bumps and paid attention.”
What actually happened was more dramatic. I saw dozens of them all at once: pilgrims wearing heavy cloaks, carrying rucksacks, supporting themselves on tall, sturdy walking staffs as they climbed from lower ground. I had read about it, but never like this... I turned to Milette and her eyes were already on me, watching from my perspective. “They walk for miles from all around, and for days at a time,” she explained, “making their pilgrimage on foot, to honor Our Lady of Fatima.”

FATIMA above right, Monument of the Little Shepherds; below left, Sanctuary of the Chapel of the Apparitions. LOURDES below right, walkway to the Basilica of Our Lady of Lourdes
Talking Pictures – Milette and I kept a running stream of conversation while taking pictures, whether candid or posed. As circumstances allowed, we multitasked, checking the light, composing each frame, snagging a passerby to shoot what we wanted with both of us in the picture. Ah, but whenever I was her subject, she was a titan behind the lens: “Kneel here and pray," she whispered (photo at left). "This is going to be an important shot.” Or, “Stand there, yes, right there,” she ordered, as she snapped this, at right.


Refreshed for the journey – At the baths of Lourdes, each pilgrim was instructed to replace all clothing with a large white sheet that was provided. I wore mine like a strapless pareo, while Milette knotted hers toga-style. I was hesitant about being immersed abruptly into cold waters, but Milette was reassuring and reminded me to leave around my neck the gold cross and chain that I wore throughout the pilgrimage (it belonged to my late mother). “You will be with your mother and the Blessed Mother in a profound way,” she said. We sat on one of the benches around the pools near the dressing booths. When my turn came, I submitted to the ministrations of the two attendants, each one positioned at both ends of the pool that looked like an elongated bathtub. The attendants wore nondescript blue-grey garments and veils, like nuns, although I learned that most of them were lay volunteers. They spoke in hushed tones. The woman at the head of the pool gently lowered me into the water, colder than I anticipated but it no longer mattered. I felt the flow of the spring waters that dated to the time of young Bernadette's encounter with Our Lady at the grotto of Massabielle. After some moments, I was helped back on my feet, and as instructed, I waded to the other end of the pool, where a small colored picture of Mary was propped up at its edge. The receiving attendant whispered a reminder, as Milette had earlier, to say a prayer to Our Lady at the conclusion of the immersion. Too soon, I was assisted out of the pool, thankful, blessed, touched by eternity.
"And let all who seek, let them come to the water..."
This church hymn never fails to bring an overwhelming sense of gratitude for that day at the baths of Lourdes, when the world grew quiet and time stopped.

At left, Evelyne and Milette, inset from the tour group's farewell snapshot before their departure from Lourdes. Below, the top part of a meditation leaflet handed to pilgrims awaiting their turn for immersion at the baths.

In the Eternal City, we met a future saint

Upon this rock, a star for the ages – St. Peter’s Square erupted with boisterous whoops of joy as Pope John Paul II in his popemobile rode around the square below the stage where he had celebrated Mass. Milette had obtained good seats for our group. But when the congregation stood as one on their chairs for a better view, I had no choice but also to stand on mine (balancing on the curved surface of the metal chair in my medium-heeled pumps). Milette held on to me so that I could snap this souvenir live shot of the Holy Father. At Mass, the Pope assured us that every devotional piece that we had purchased during our pilgrimage, worn on our person or brought to the Mass, would be blessed by him. “Take these instruments of prayer home with you to bless your families and your life,” he said.
Art anywhere, any given day
A rainy day in northwestern Spain found us at St. Stephen’s Church in the hamlet of Garabandal in the Cantabrian Mountains. Outside the church, we came upon this charming tableau of wooden clogs and umbrellas (below left). Milette pointed out a unique feature of the shoes, which were outfitted with rounded wooden heels to facilitate walking on sloping cobbled streets. Below right, at Carcassonne, a medieval walled city along the French Riviera, we found this generous piece of wall art depicting an ancient battle at the fort.
From the Vatican Museum shop, this beauty – a delicately sculpted marble figure of St. Michael the Archangel (at right). Measuring 7" high and 6" wide from end-to-end of the angel's wing span, this piece was my most important purchase of the pilgrimage. (There also were buttery-soft leather goods and other stuff, but this one endures.) In the shop, Milette protectively supervised its packaging with generous layers of bubble wrap. Later, she checked in my suitcase to make sure it was safely cushioned between layers of clothing.

Carcassonne, along the French Riviera
Outside St. Stephen's Church, Garabandal, Spain


They’re all in this bag – the memorabilia, small gifts, cards, letters. Ah, the letters: addressed by hand, stamped and mailed by post. It all seems quaint today, but I’m thankful for the time we corresponded the old-fashioned way before e-mail quickened things. Milette’s handwritten notes stuck here and there, typewritten letters that bore her signature – touching them is comforting. I leaf through letters full of plans that came true (our pilgrimage to Europe, visits exchanged between our coasts, others) and some that didn’t. Milette wanted to bring together what she called a “core group” of classmates for a pilgrimage to the Holy Land and revive stalled plans for a newsletter by converting it into a pilgrimage journal. Our full-time day jobs brought us to the realization that we had overreached. But even a scaled-back plan along these themes had to be shelved when she cancelled all tours to the Holy Land due to turmoil in the Middle East. “God will fulfill our plans in time, but in different ways,” she used to say. Amen to that. I believe that our most aspirational plans – how we shaped them, how we saw them go nowhere – have continued, in their own way, to tell the story of two women who once took a golden pilgrimage of the spirit together.
An end, a beginning,
of a golden voyage

© 2015 Rosary gift, travel bag, © 1998 European group;
by Evelyne R. McFeaters